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Nicholas de Monchaux

Author Nicholas de Monchaux on the story of how the twenty-one layer Apollo Spacesuit, made by Playtex, was a triumph of intimacy over engineering, and what it teaches us.

Howl5 ft1 header
Howl5 web ft1 pressure suit
T-1 Pressure Suit
T-1 from a 1952 Air Force press release.
Photo: courtesy National Archives at College Park
Howl5 web ft1 john young
John Young
Astronaut John Young posing in his David Clark Gemini spacesuit, 1963.
Photo: NASA Image S-63-15077, courtesy Johnson Space Center

Nicholas de Mon­chaux is Pro­fes­sor and Head of Archi­tec­ture at MIT. He is a part­ner in the archi­tec­ture prac­tice modem, and a founder of the design tech­nol­o­gy com­pa­ny, Local Soft­ware. He is the author of Space­suit: Fash­ion­ing Apol­lo (MIT Press, 2011), win­ner of the Eugene Emme award from the Amer­i­can Astro­nau­ti­cal Soci­ety, as well as Local Code: 3,659 Pro­pos­als about Data, Design, and the Nature of Cities.

— Princeton Architectural Press, 2016
— How did you come up with the idea for your book, “Spacesuit,” which tells the story of the twenty-one layer Apollo spacesuit and topics relevant to the suit, the body and 20th century technology?

As a grad­u­ate stu­dent at Prince­ton, I dis­cov­ered Reyn­er Banham’s great book, Scenes in Amer­i­ca Deser­ta, in which he writes that one learns the most about archi­tec­ture in its absence, and that the archi­tec­ture of the desert is the most instruc­tive envi­ron­ment on the core nature and needs of archi­tec­ture. Also, for a sem­i­nar on domes­tic space, I want­ed to write about the most extreme, non-archi­tec­tur­al domes­tic space that could inform us about archi­tec­ture, and that led me to the Apol­lo space pro­gram which sus­tained a human on the sur­face of the moon – the most hos­tile envi­ron­ment ever encoun­tered by mankind. It turned out to be a very dif­fi­cult, com­pli­cat­ed sto­ry, and for that term paper, I sub­mit­ted twen­ty-one one-page papers that tried to get into the sto­ry of the Apol­lo space­suit made by the Play­tex bra company.


Lat­er, I was invit­ed to give a lec­ture at the San­ta Fe Insti­tute on the theme of com­plex­i­ty and design, and so I returned to this sub­ject and, as I’ve learned, every­one is inter­est­ed in space­suits. I just bare­ly scratched the sur­face, and about eight years lat­er, the book was published.

— In your book, you discuss the actual origins of space, referencing Milton:

Mil­ton coined the word, Space,” as the space between worlds in the con­text where space is an envi­ron­ment out­side of the earth­ly realm, which is inher­ent­ly hos­tile to human occu­pa­tion. You also have the space of the archi­tect — and the space of out­er space is actu­al­ly the oppo­site of the space of the archi­tect, because it is a space that humans can­not encounter with­out dying, and so must enter exclu­sive­ly through a depen­dence on tech­no­log­i­cal medi­a­tion. Despite the utopi­an ren­der­ings we see nowa­days from the likes of Elon Musk and Jeff Bezos, space is most­ly a place where we project our fan­tasies of who we are and how we want to be, and that has a rela­tion­ship to tech­nol­o­gy. Space has a very dif­fer­ent phys­i­cal def­i­n­i­tion for dif­fer­ent dis­ci­plines, from med­i­cine to astronautics.

— You discuss the spacesuit—this twenty-one layer messy assemblage made by the Playtex bra company, using hand-stitched couture techniques—as a kind of anti-hero, a women’s lingerie company that manufactures a textile that plays an important life-or death role in the survival of an astronaut.

One of the main nar­ra­tives of the book is that the space­suit stands between the body and not just the extreme envi­ron­ment of out­er space, but the orga­ni­za­tion­al and tech­no­log­i­cal envi­ron­ment of the space race, which was all based upon tech­niques to devel­op mis­sile defense sys­tems and then nuclear weapons. The engi­neer­ing sys­tems of the space race weren’t designed for human habi­ta­tion or occu­pa­tion in any way, and were designed, in fact, for the reverse. The orig­i­nal Mer­cury suits were designed as emer­gency suits, and the Gem­i­ni suit allowed you to sur­vive a brief expe­di­tion into out­er space. [The Mer­cury and Gem­i­ni suits] weren’t designed to allow you to walk around and do work because it’s very hard to design a pres­sur­ized cap­sule shaped like a person.


My book talks about the engi­neer­ing prob­lem both from a mil­i­tary indus­tri­al per­spec­tive and a much more Mac­Gyver­ing mod­el. A five-per­son indus­tri­al design team at Play­tex, staffed by a for­mer TV repair­man who was an MIT dropout, cer­tain­ly knew some­thing about engi­neer­ing by work­ing adja­cent to the pro­duc­tion line of bras and gir­dles, and work­ing with fab­rics and rub­ber dip­ping. These were devices and mech­a­nisms that could allow a pres­sur­ized enve­lope to be inflat­ed to very high pres­sure but still be able to be moved by and walked around by the per­son inside of it. And then, when that was adapt­ed fur­ther, instead of mak­ing a sin­gle lay­er that could try to do every­thing, they just added more and more lay­ers of dif­fer­ent kinds of fab­rics that already existed.


And so, this epi­der­mal struc­ture, just like our own skin, was very soft. It was made by hand by women, and it didn’t fit into the larg­er sys­tem of how things were pro­duced for the space race, which result in all kinds of prob­lems. When I was at the Smith­son­ian in the ear­ly 2000s, the Apol­lo astro­nauts came to vis­it their suits, and I remem­ber ask­ing Tom Stafford about his suit. He said, It was just a truck,” he said. This is a part of me,” point­ing to the suit. It was a very spe­cial kind of object but par­tic­u­lar­ly remark­able in that larg­er tech­no­log­i­cal sys­tem of the Apol­lo infra­struc­ture that it had as much to do with the body inside, as it did with all the sys­tems out­side of it.

Gemini Spacesuits
— How did you come up with the idea for your book, “Spacesuit,” which tells the story of the twenty-one layer Apollo spacesuit and topics relevant to the suit, the body and 20th century technology?

As a grad­u­ate stu­dent at Prince­ton, I dis­cov­ered Reyn­er Banham’s great book, Scenes in Amer­i­ca Deser­ta, in which he writes that one learns the most about archi­tec­ture in its absence, and that the archi­tec­ture of the desert is the most instruc­tive envi­ron­ment on the core nature and needs of archi­tec­ture. Also, for a sem­i­nar on domes­tic space, I want­ed to write about the most extreme, non-archi­tec­tur­al domes­tic space that could inform us about archi­tec­ture, and that led me to the Apol­lo space pro­gram which sus­tained a human on the sur­face of the moon – the most hos­tile envi­ron­ment ever encoun­tered by mankind. It turned out to be a very dif­fi­cult, com­pli­cat­ed sto­ry, and for that term paper, I sub­mit­ted twen­ty-one one-page papers that tried to get into the sto­ry of the Apol­lo space­suit made by the Play­tex bra company.


Lat­er, I was invit­ed to give a lec­ture at the San­ta Fe Insti­tute on the theme of com­plex­i­ty and design, and so I returned to this sub­ject and, as I’ve learned, every­one is inter­est­ed in space­suits. I just bare­ly scratched the sur­face, and about eight years lat­er, the book was published.

Howl5 web ft1 pressure suit
T-1 Pressure Suit
T-1 from a 1952 Air Force press release.
Photo: courtesy National Archives at College Park
— In your book, you discuss the actual origins of space, referencing Milton:

Mil­ton coined the word, Space,” as the space between worlds in the con­text where space is an envi­ron­ment out­side of the earth­ly realm, which is inher­ent­ly hos­tile to human occu­pa­tion. You also have the space of the archi­tect — and the space of out­er space is actu­al­ly the oppo­site of the space of the archi­tect, because it is a space that humans can­not encounter with­out dying, and so must enter exclu­sive­ly through a depen­dence on tech­no­log­i­cal medi­a­tion. Despite the utopi­an ren­der­ings we see nowa­days from the likes of Elon Musk and Jeff Bezos, space is most­ly a place where we project our fan­tasies of who we are and how we want to be, and that has a rela­tion­ship to tech­nol­o­gy. Space has a very dif­fer­ent phys­i­cal def­i­n­i­tion for dif­fer­ent dis­ci­plines, from med­i­cine to astronautics.

— You discuss the spacesuit—this twenty-one layer messy assemblage made by the Playtex bra company, using hand-stitched couture techniques—as a kind of anti-hero, a women’s lingerie company that manufactures a textile that plays an important life-or death role in the survival of an astronaut.

One of the main nar­ra­tives of the book is that the space­suit stands between the body and not just the extreme envi­ron­ment of out­er space, but the orga­ni­za­tion­al and tech­no­log­i­cal envi­ron­ment of the space race, which was all based upon tech­niques to devel­op mis­sile defense sys­tems and then nuclear weapons. The engi­neer­ing sys­tems of the space race weren’t designed for human habi­ta­tion or occu­pa­tion in any way, and were designed, in fact, for the reverse. The orig­i­nal Mer­cury suits were designed as emer­gency suits, and the Gem­i­ni suit allowed you to sur­vive a brief expe­di­tion into out­er space. [The Mer­cury and Gem­i­ni suits] weren’t designed to allow you to walk around and do work because it’s very hard to design a pres­sur­ized cap­sule shaped like a person.


My book talks about the engi­neer­ing prob­lem both from a mil­i­tary indus­tri­al per­spec­tive and a much more Mac­Gyver­ing mod­el. A five-per­son indus­tri­al design team at Play­tex, staffed by a for­mer TV repair­man who was an MIT dropout, cer­tain­ly knew some­thing about engi­neer­ing by work­ing adja­cent to the pro­duc­tion line of bras and gir­dles, and work­ing with fab­rics and rub­ber dip­ping. These were devices and mech­a­nisms that could allow a pres­sur­ized enve­lope to be inflat­ed to very high pres­sure but still be able to be moved by and walked around by the per­son inside of it. And then, when that was adapt­ed fur­ther, instead of mak­ing a sin­gle lay­er that could try to do every­thing, they just added more and more lay­ers of dif­fer­ent kinds of fab­rics that already existed.


And so, this epi­der­mal struc­ture, just like our own skin, was very soft. It was made by hand by women, and it didn’t fit into the larg­er sys­tem of how things were pro­duced for the space race, which result in all kinds of prob­lems. When I was at the Smith­son­ian in the ear­ly 2000s, the Apol­lo astro­nauts came to vis­it their suits, and I remem­ber ask­ing Tom Stafford about his suit. He said, It was just a truck,” he said. This is a part of me,” point­ing to the suit. It was a very spe­cial kind of object but par­tic­u­lar­ly remark­able in that larg­er tech­no­log­i­cal sys­tem of the Apol­lo infra­struc­ture that it had as much to do with the body inside, as it did with all the sys­tems out­side of it.

Howl5 web ft1 john young
John Young
Astronaut John Young posing in his David Clark Gemini spacesuit, 1963.
Photo: NASA Image S-63-15077, courtesy Johnson Space Center

Nicholas de Mon­chaux is Pro­fes­sor and Head of Archi­tec­ture at MIT. He is a part­ner in the archi­tec­ture prac­tice modem, and a founder of the design tech­nol­o­gy com­pa­ny, Local Soft­ware. He is the author of Space­suit: Fash­ion­ing Apol­lo (MIT Press, 2011), win­ner of the Eugene Emme award from the Amer­i­can Astro­nau­ti­cal Soci­ety, as well as Local Code: 3,659 Pro­pos­als about Data, Design, and the Nature of Cities.

— Princeton Architectural Press, 2016
Gemini Spacesuits